Thursday, July 24, 2014

Komodo National Park.....an enchanting experience (Part 2)

Continue...part 2

After loading all the food stuffs and luggage into the boat, we sailed at around 4.45pm to start our diving trip. But before that we have to complete some official paperwork before the boat sails. Once everyone has settled, Linn and Son started to plan our 15 dives throughout the trip...covering the best dive sites considering the current, temperatures, marine life etc...betul-betul semangat...15 dives...larat ke?...hehe

Since we were delayed at Bali for about 4 hours, our checkout dive which was supposed to be in the
afternoon has now became night dive..... or to be specific midnight dive....I have done night dive before but not midnight dive...but since we were eager to dive...we dived anyway even though the time was almost 11.00PM. After a short briefing we boarded a small chaser boat to go the dive site called Cannibal Reef. It was a rather dark night and nothing can be seen around our boat but only a clear sky with millions of stars above...Man BD, Linn and Rosni were really prepared for this trip...actually they brought very expensive lighting system (strobe) and lenses, all nicely attached to their cameras...they are really interested in macro photography....
Pic by Nurul Azlifah

I must admit that those little nudibranches are very colourful when enlarged...and some have just been recently discovered....Luck must have been with Linn and Man BD when Peter spotted a newly discovered nudibranch called "Melibe Colemani"...that thing really made Man BD and Linn very-very happy....There was a long praise in Linn's FB about the photo of Melibe Colemani...actually it was very confusing to find where the head of the animal is....  

The next day we dived at Cannibal Rock where I saw a rather big octopus and plenty of sweet lips...but the water was
cold...25oC...normal around this time of the year.... the place has abundant marine life...now I better start learning more about these creatures because they have their own characteristics...then it will be a lot more interesting when I dive...we surfaced after 65 minutes...

The next dive site is at Manta Alley....but before that, we sailed to Rincha Island where komodo dragons can be spotted on the beach front...previously the authorities allow the visitors to feed the animal but has now prohibited the activities since this will cause the dragons to be dependent on the visitors for food. Again all of us boarded the chaser boat and cruised to the beach front....there were a few komodos already on the beach when we arrived. We were not allowed to set foot on the beach but just watch the lizards from the boat...I must admit that the animals just look at us like their breakfast since they are not afraid at all...in fact one of them swam toward our
boat...scary!!!...Now I can tell the whole world that I have seen living Komodo dragons....After that short trip we went back to the boat to get ready to go to Manta Alley...the main attraction for coming to Komodo... Again after a short briefing by Peter and Son...we boarded the chaser boat to Manta Alley....just about reaching the dive site, Son shouted.... manta...manta...manta....without wasting time, everybody quickly backrolled and descended to the bottom...

Even though the water was rather cold at 26oC, I did not feel a thing...we just descended as fast as possible since I can see a few mantas flying down below...The depth of Manta Alley is about 26.5m and there was slow current and visibility was about 10-15m because the water was filled with plankton...the food for manta rays...I can't really described my feeling at that time...happy was as an understatement.... astounded!!! ...There were about 15-20 mantas flying around us and we were lucky to be able to spot a black manta...The mantas were flying gracefully around us....You can see the video that I shot on the mantas here Manta Ray Dancing.... Not sure if I will ever return to this place again but at least I have seen the animals with my own two eyes at a very close distance....Tired....that how I felt but fulfilled....I did not dive at the Pink Beach in the afternoon and the night dive was cancelled since everyone was so dead tired...The beach is called pink because it contains small particle which is pink in colour. Actually it was broken corals. The boat moored in one of the lagoon for the night...It was very quiet since there was no other people around us...just our boat...all by ourselves...tranquility....We had a good dinner cooked by our chef and soon after that I went to sleep...but not before calling my wife to say everything was alright...(in fact that was my routine everyday during the trip)....[Note: I have to breath pure oxygen for 10 minutes that night to recover from tiredness....]

The next morning we went to Komodo Island, the island where the giant lizard got its name...our boat berthed at the jetty and we set foot on Komodo Island for trekking. We are supposed to trek the hills to find Komodo dragon. Pak Iwan the ranger with the Komodo National Park was our guide. We decided to trek on a medium track for 2 km which will take about one hour. Pak Iwan briefed on the safety aspect before we start our trekking and also told us about the lizard. Komodo can live for up to 65 years, weight about 60kg and grow up to 3.2m. they can eat up to half of their body weight and wait for another month for the next meal. Since the national
park is a wild life area, there are wild goats, deers and many other animals that komodos can prey upon. There are approximately 2800 komodos on Komodo Island and 2400 komodos on Rincha Island. There are another two other islands that komodo can be found. Komodo will die if they are moved away from the island they are born. Even if the lizard from Rinca is moved to Komodo Island, it will die. That is why komodo is not found in any other places and definitely not in zoos around the world. There...I learnt quite a bit about Komodo lizards....

The excitement never really stops on this trip...after seeing the real life Komodos the next two dive sites are considered very challenging...Batu Bolong and Shot Gun....I suppose you must be fit, healthy and full of energy before you can dive at these sites... Earlier when filling up the form before we sail, one of the question asked is whether I have dived in the current faster than 2 knots...my answer was negative...the best current dive I have ever done was in Pulau Tenggol but the current was not that fast...no one requested that I must have a reef hook before I dive...but at these places, reef hook is a must....  One thing that I saw when the boat approached the dive sites was there were many whirlpools. The current was rather strong...around 5 knots per hour (which is 8km/h)

The one thing that I can never forget was Linn who can never stops being an instructor. She pulled me to one side and gave me one-on-one briefing before we boarded the chaser boat. I remembered that she told me if I were sucked downward in a whirlpool, what I should do is to release the weight, fully inflate my BCD and slowly swim upward to ascend, control breathing using CESA (Controlled Emergency Swimming Ascent) technique, i.e. you must exhale and not ascend faster than the bubbles ...no need to do a safety stop...sound really scary!!! ...but actually I know that Peter, the other guide was always on the look out for me... hehe...lega...

Well, I have seen schools of jack fish and barracudas in hundreds at Sipadan, but nothing compares in waters around Komodo National Park. At Batu Bolong you have to dive very carefully not to go beyond certain limits or else you will be caught by the strong currents, at Shot Gun, you experienced strong current dive and have to use reef hook otherwise you ended up somewhere else but at all these places, there are plenty of fishes and marine life. At Castel Rock, I swam with a big green Napoleon Wrasse and at Crystal Rock there was a lot of white tip sharks....plenty to see, you just stay in one place and all the fishes will swim pass by you....60 minutes went by without you really realising the time...except that the waters were a bit cold .... 23oC - 26oC.

On the last diving day, the water temperature has improved to around 28oC. However since we need to observe no flight time, we decided to do only 2 last dives at Tatawa besar and Sebayur Kecil. the first dive at Tatawa Besar, we are supposed to do negative descend since the current was a bit strong...however the current was really strong...after only 4 minutes at 9 meters...Peter gave an ascent sign and cancelled the dive there....we have to move a bit further up before we descend again....

I was really amazed at these last two dive sites....the were plenty of corals...I really have to  control
my buoyancy....scared if my fin might damage the corals...what I saw was there is a long stretch of corals ..... I think more than 100 meters....I can't even see the sand below....amazing....what a final sent off...cantik betul....Because we were underwater for so long, I have to do a decompression for 4 minutes on top of the normal 3 minutes safety stop...Ros have to do more than 15 minutes decompression...that was how much we enjoyed being underwater there...sampai tak sedar diri....


We packed off that night and the boat slowly sailed back to Flores....we slept on the boat that night and in the morning we had an early breakfast. Because of the low tide, the have to go the jetty by the chaser boat where the bus was waiting for us there to send us to the airport....


Again, the flight was not on time and we only departed at around 11.00AM. We arrived in Bali at around lunchtime where Pak Agus is already there to pick us up. All of my buddies decided to stay back in Bali for another 2 days but I must go home...we had a nice lunch at Mak Beng....special - only one standard menu...white rice, spicy fish soup and fried fish but was very tasty....After that they sent me back to the airport for my flight back home....     


Well, next dive trip shall be Oslob and Moalboal in the Philippine.....sardine run and whale shark.....can't wait till August...


Below is my diving records at Komodo National Park:
Dive No
Location
Date
Time
Dive Duration
Water Temp
Max. Depth
Ave. Depth
1*
Cannibal Reef
27/4/14
10.42PM
70mins
25oC
15.9m
12.8m
2
Cannibal Rock
28/4/14
7.16AM
65mins
25oC
24.4m
14.6m
3
Manta Alley
28/4/14
12.02PM
53mins

26.5m
17.1m
4
Batu Bolong
29/4/14
11.25AM
46mins
23oC
28.7m
16.8m
5
Shot Gun

29/4/14
3.14PM
60mins
28oC
22.3m
12.8m
6*
Gili Lawa Darat
29/4/14
6.52PM
63mins
24oC
18.0m
14.3m
7
Castel Rock
30/4/14
7.31AM
50mins
27oC
25.6m
16.5m
8
Crystal Rock
30/4/14
10.40AM
61mins
29oC
19.5m
14.6m
9
Gili Lawa Laut
30/4/14
3.20PM
64mins
28oC
29.3m
15.5m
10
Tatawa Besar
1/5/14
7.24AM
4mins
28oC
9.8m
-
11
Tatawa Besar
1/5/14
7.24AM
57mins
28oC
19.8m
10.4m
12**
Sebayur Kecil
1/5/14
10.32AM
59mins
28oC
25.9m
15.2m
As per the readings from my loyal Suunto Zoop
Note
* - Night Dive
 ** - Decompression dive - 4 minutes

Komodo National Park....an enchanting experience (Part 1)

Ever since I got to know Man BD and Linn of UiD back in 2012, they always enticed me with exciting stories about diving in exotic places...especially in Indonesia and the Philippine. Apart from Lombok which I have dived with them in Jan 2013, they are a few more exciting dive sites that they always mentioned such as Lembeh and Togian in Makassar Island, Raja Ampat, Bali and Komodo. These are great places for divers which offer different creatures to see as well as different diving experience.

I was quite skeptical when they asked me to join their trip to Komodo Island. I only know Komodo
dragon but never heard about dive sites in Komodo and worst, don't even know where Komodo is.... Anyway diving in Komodo Island sounds exotic and exciting. So far, I have only seen sting rays, reef sharks, grouper...the big pelagic fishes but not manta ray.....I was told there is a dive site called Manta Alley in Komodo.... Then this is one of the trips that I cannot miss and I am determined to go to Komodo at least once in my lifetime. So I told Man BD and Linn that I want to join their next trip to Komodo.

The original plan to go to Komodo was with the Penang guys in April 2014. It is suppose to be a group of 6 guys but somehow after I made the booking, none of the Penang guys can make it.  So Rosni and Kak Long took up vacant seats but there is still one seat not taken (I was told that Man BD and Linn have to absorbed the cost). 

The planned trip to Komodo will be in late April / early May 2014. This is a good time for me to take a long leave from office since there will not be much company activities happen during this time. I have informed my boss earlier that I planned to take leave for about a week to go to Komodo and this time I was not so stressed up because I know I can leave the office peacefully (relatively speaking ...haha).

I was less apprehensive but rather relaxed and cool this time around. I have been on dive trips with these guys before, namely Lombok and Sipadan.  Man BD and Linn will take care of everything such as accommodation, local transport, F&B and diving advice and tips. I just need to bring myself and follow their plan and advice. That’s why I like going on dive trips with these UiD guys.

Our trip to Komodo will be on 26 April – 2 May 2014. We fly from KLIA to Bali, and from Bali to Labuan Bajo in Flores, and from there we will live abroad (LOB) on MV Komodo Plus for 5 nights. The plan is for us to do 15 dives including night dives. I have been on MV Black Pearl LOB before, when I dived in Tioman in May 2013. It was with 19 divers and 4 crews but this time round, MV Komodo Plus can only accommodate 6 divers but with a crew of 7 people excluding the two divemasters. That’s what I say luxury....

Our flight on MAS from KLIA to Denpasar was without a hitch. Everything went smoothly as planned but when we landed at Bali’s new airport Ngurah Rai.....to our surprise, there were thousands of passengers waiting to pass through the immigration check point. There were many passengers from European countries, Taiwan and Japan arriving at the same time. We have to queue up for about 2 hours before getting our passport cleared. What a place!!!

Luckily man BD had arranged the local transport from the airport to
the hotel. I don’t have to worry about a thing and we arrived at our hotel in 10 minutes... Hotel Vira is quite nearby to the airport and it was a nice small hotel. We freshened up and went out again for meals. After dinner at Natrabu, the famous Minang restaurant, Pak Agus the local supir took us sightseeing around Kuta and Legian. Kuta square is a very vibrant place at night where many tourists mostly whites enjoying the music and drinks there. They really enjoyed Bali and more so because Bali is relatively cheap and safe. Even if you have to walk along the back lanes at night, you will not feel intimidated. After a short stop at Starbuck and Bali Hard Rock cafe, we went back to hotel to rest...what a day. [Pak Agus was a shy and friendly driver. I booked him again when I went to Bali with my wife in June]

The next day, we were supposed to take the flight at 9.00 am from Bali to Labuan Bajo. [Note: Labuan Bajo literally means Pelabuhan Bajau in the local Flores dialect] That flight was cancelled and the next flight is scheduled to fly at 11.55am. We arrived at the airport at around 9.30am and again the place looked chaos. There were so many people queuing and everybody was rushing...that’s Indonesia for you...however they will always managed to sort things out...Our flight was delayed to 12.35pm and delayed again due to the late arrival of the aircraft... and finally it departed at almost 1.00 pm. We lost a good 4 hours before reaching Labuan Bajo....[On trip like this, you really have to be patience...so many things can go wrong such as weather, people, etc....just be patience!!!]

After slightly less than 2 hour flight on a twin propellers aircraft, we arrived at Labuan Bajo. The new incomplete airport looks impressive but the construction has been delayed for quite sometime. We had to embark at the old airport where the facilities are really basic. Man BD, Linn and Rosni recognised the two men who were waiting for us and they took us to the bus waiting to transport us to the boat. We stopped at a local supermarket to buy some little-little foodstuff and at the wet market to buy vegetables for us to cook on the boat. This is on top what has been provided in the boat. The extras...

The LOB, KLM Nusa Tara [KLM=Kapal Layar Motor] (previously known as KLM Komodo Plus) is a wooden boat built in 1996. Its’ length is 18 meters and weighing 57 tonnes.  The cruising speed is between 5 – 7 knots per hour but with the help of the of current, the speed can reach up to 10 knots per hour. Originally it was built to ferry tourist around Komodo National Park for snorkeling and to see Komodo dragons but since year 2000 the boat was converted to carry divers to dive around the beautiful islands of Komodo. Even though it is an 18 year old boat, the condition of the boat is still very good with modern amenities. All rooms are fitted with air conditioners and have separate bathrooms.

The captain of the boat is Pak Samsudin (aka Pak Sedo) but the guide/leader is Pak Wilson and we just call him “Son” short for Wilson who is from Papua. Son is also a dive master and the other diver master is Peter who comes from Flores. There are another 7 crew members who will look after us during the trip including the cook, chambermaid, engineer, two boatmen and a trainee. All of them are very friendly, knowledgeable and helpful....with their never ending smiles...    

Continue to part 2...